Handpicked experience · Trou d’Eau Douce
Trou d’Eau Douce, Mauritius
The island of stags has no stags, and the water is that colour because a barrier reef out on the horizon takes the swell before it ever reaches you.
A lagoon protected by a reef you can see breaking on the horizon
Sailing rather than motoring across the water
Grilled food eaten within sight of where the boat anchored
A shoreline that empties out if you are willing to walk
Water shallow enough to swim in without any experience
A full day on a catamaran from Trou d'Eau Douce to Île aux Cerfs: sailing across the lagoon, snorkelling stops in sheltered water, a barbecue lunch, and several hours on the island's beaches.
The whole east coast sits inside a barrier reef, and everything about this day depends on it.
Ocean swell breaks on the reef a long way out, so the water between the reef and the shore stays flat regardless of what the open sea is doing. That is what produces the colour: shallow water over pale sand, undisturbed, with the light going straight down and coming straight back. It is also why the sailing is comfortable, why the snorkelling suits beginners, and why the island has beaches at all.
You can usually see the line of white where the swell is breaking, out on the horizon. Everything inside it is the lagoon.
Île aux Cerfs means island of stags, and there are none. There were once — deer were introduced by Dutch settlers and later hunted here, which is where the name comes from — but the population is long gone and the island now belongs to visitors and a golf course.
It is worth setting expectations. This is not a wild island. It is a beautiful, comprehensively developed one, with beach bars, watersports operators and a lot of people on the sand near the jetty. The walk matters: fifteen or twenty minutes along the shore away from the landing point and the crowd thins to almost nothing, which is where the day becomes what the photographs promise.
The snorkelling here is easy rather than spectacular. Shallow, warm, sheltered water with good visibility and no current, over coral that has taken a beating from bleaching and heavy visitor traffic over the years.
If you have snorkelled the Red Sea or the Coral Triangle, this will not compare, and it is better to know that now. If you have never put your face in the water before, it is close to ideal: you can stand up almost everywhere, nothing is going to push you around, and there are fish.
This is a shared catamaran and the day runs to the boat's schedule, not yours.
Sun on the water is the main hazard. There is shade on board but not much, and the island's beaches near the landing have limited natural cover. Reef-safe sunscreen, a shirt for snorkelling and a hat are all genuinely necessary rather than nice to have. Bring cash if you want anything from the island's bars, take a dry bag for phones, and be back at the jetty when the crew says — the boat will not wait indefinitely for one party.
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What the fare covers, and what to budget for separately.
The practical detail, and the answers people actually ask for.
A barrier reef takes the ocean swell far offshore, so the water between the reef and the shore stays flat whatever the open sea is doing.
Shallow enough to stand in at most of the anchorages, which is part of why the boat uses them.
None. Dutch settlers introduced them and they were hunted here, which is where the name comes from, but the population is long gone.
No, and it is better to know that. It is beautiful but comprehensively developed, with beach bars, watersports and a golf course.
Walk. Fifteen or twenty minutes along the shore from the landing point and the sand empties out almost completely.
Easy rather than spectacular. Shallow, warm and sheltered with no current, over coral that has been affected by bleaching and heavy traffic.
Equipment is normally handed out on board, though anyone who owns a mask that fits properly will be more comfortable in it.
Be back when the crew says. The boat runs to its own schedule and will not wait indefinitely for one party.