Handpicked experience · Luxor
Luxor, Egypt
A working mosque sits inside Luxor Temple with its door hanging in mid-air, because the ground it was built on was excavated out from under it.
A doorway left hanging when the ground was dug away beneath it
Four religions using the same stone in sequence
Roman painting laid straight over pharaonic carving
An empty plinth whose other half stands in Paris
A schedule built around your ship rather than the site
A three-hour shore excursion from the Luxor dock to Karnak and Luxor Temple, timed against your ship's schedule with private transfers and a guaranteed return.
Look up at the north-east corner of Luxor Temple and you will see a working mosque built into the ancient stonework, with a doorway hanging several metres above the ground and nothing beneath it.
The explanation is buried, literally. When the mosque of Abu Haggag was built roughly eight hundred years ago, the temple was full of sand and rubble, and the ground level was up where that door is. The town sat on top of the buried temple, and the mosque was constructed at the height the town had reached.
Then the temple was excavated in the nineteenth century. The fill was cleared out from underneath the mosque, the original floor was exposed far below, and the door was left stranded in the air where it had always been. The mosque was not removed, because it was and is in use — the annual festival held there follows a route that looks a great deal like the ancient one.
That mosque is the current chapter of an unbroken sequence, and Luxor Temple's real distinction is that the sequence never stopped.
The temple was built for the Theban gods. Under Rome, part of it became a shrine to the imperial cult, and Roman frescoes were painted directly over pharaonic reliefs — both are still visible on the same wall. Later it held a Christian church. Then the mosque, still in use today.
There are very few places on earth where the same ground has been in continuous religious use for that long. Most sites were abandoned, buried, or replaced. This one was simply re-dedicated, over and over, by whoever held the town.
A single obelisk stands before the temple pylon, and the empty base beside it is not damage.
There were two. In the eighteen-thirties one was given to France, dismantled, floated down the Nile, shipped across the Mediterranean and re-erected in the Place de la Concorde, where it still stands. France sent a mechanical clock in exchange; the clock was installed in the Cairo citadel and, by most accounts, never worked properly.
You are looking at half of a pair, and the other half is the oldest monument in Paris.
This is a shore excursion, which means the ship's departure governs everything. The route is built to return you in time, and the guide will keep the pace accordingly.
Three hours covers both temples at a working pace. Karnak alone could absorb a day, so this is a considered selection rather than a complete visit. Entrance charges at both sites are handled at the gates. There is little shade in the open courts, and the stone radiates heat well into the afternoon.
Open it to pick a date and work out the price.
What the fare covers, and what to budget for separately.
The practical detail, and the answers people actually ask for.
It was built roughly eight hundred years ago on top of the buried temple, when the town sat on sand and rubble filling the ancient courts.
Because the fill was excavated out from underneath it in the nineteenth century, leaving the door where the old ground level used to be.
It was and remains in use. The annual festival held there follows a route closely resembling the ancient one.
Around three thousand four hundred years, without a break — Theban gods, the Roman imperial cult, a church, and now a mosque.
Yes. Roman frescoes were painted directly over pharaonic reliefs, and both remain visible on the same wall.
There were two. One was given to France in the eighteen-thirties and re-erected in the Place de la Concorde.
At the centre of a Paris traffic circle, which is a considerable change of setting for a stone cut for a temple forecourt.
It covers both temples at a working pace. Karnak alone could absorb a day, so the route is a considered selection.